Neha Kirpal

Neha Kirpal has been working in the Indian media for the past five years – as a television reporter, newspaper correspondent, and web writer. She has a degree in economics and is a qualified broadcast journalist. Her writings have appeared in Asia Writes, Pulp Metal magazine, Muse India, Compass Culture, Wave Journey, Bootsnall, and Real Travel Adventures. She divides her time between work, reading, and exercising.

 

That Swiss September (August 20, 2011. Issue 30.)

Tribeca had applied to hotel management school in Switzerland. She had always been intrigued by the world of hospitality and staying in hotels had fascinated her ever since she was a young girl. So when she finished high school in London, it was natural for her to choose this line of career.

She got admission into a diploma course in hotel operational management at the Swiss Hotel Management School in Leysin and was ecstatic. 'What better place to study than in Switzerland?' she thought. She had already heard so much about it and now couldn't wait to go and see it. Leysin also had many other renowned international schools and universities offering high-quality training. Several international students came to study, giving this otherwise sleepy mountain village a vibrant character. It was all perfect!

She decided to make the most of the two years she was going to spend here and so she made up her mind to soak in all the travel and sightseeing she could during this time. She also decided it would be a good idea to go a week in advance before her course began so that she could settle in and get a bearing of her surroundings. With her bags packed and goodbyes to all her friends and family, Tribeca was finally goal set!

Her little sister, Rebecca asked her to send her detailed letters every now and then describing all her observations and experiences. Tribeca promised that she would do so regularly. She landed in Zurich early on a Monday morning. The beauty that surrounded her as she got off the plane struck her immediately and without losing any time, Tribeca, true to her word began writing her sister a postcard she got on the flight.

1 st September, 2009

Dear Rebecca,

I just landed in Zurich. The beauty here is difficult to describe. I wrote this little poem to give you a mental picture:

"Pristine blue lakes and rivers,
Glistening against bright yellow sunshine.

Black and white jersey cows grazing on
Undulating green meadows.

Chocolate brown huts, castles, churches,
Hamlets, citadels and fortresses
Set against a backdrop of snow-white icy glaciers.

Landing in Switzerland is like
Diving straight into a painting."

I guess you get the drift. Did I tell you, the story of 'Heidi' comes from here too? I like to pretend I'm her, a girl of the Alps.

Hope you are doing well. More in my next.

Love,
Tribeca
Xox

After mailing her hastily jotted note to Rebecca, Tribeca used the Swiss Rail system which she gathered was the best way to get around in Switzerland. She was almost taken aback by its punctuality : in fact, the system was so accurate that she actually saw an old lady setting her watch with the rail timetable. Since Tribeca knew a smattering of French, she started talking to the lady, whose name was Margaret. Margaret was friendly and willingly gave her lots of free sightseeing advice.

"There are many things to see in this lovely country. You will find that each destination you go to will mysteriously lead to another. That's just what makes it so hard to plan anything in advance when you're in Switzerland. While you're busy getting lost in some breathtaking mountain views, you'll be serendipitously transported to another exciting destination waiting to be explored," she said.

"Really? But I had planned to see different Cantons on different days," said Tribeca.

"My dear, don't plan anything here. Just go without an agenda like a wanderer and go with the flow. O! Make sure you carry a windbreaker, since the weather tends to fluctuate immensely from sunny to cloudy, usually without warning. You could also wear your clothing as layers, which you could peel off one by one or add on depending on the weather . Also remember to grab some small food items whenever you venture out since you might not realize just how much time you want to spend somewhere."

The station they were crossing was called Aigle, an ancient city located in the Rhone Valley a short distance from Lake Geneva. "Oops, that's my stop," said Margaret getting off. Tribeca wanted to thank her, stop and ask her address or even her phone number, but there was no time. Just like the rest of the Swiss mystique all around her, Margaret too disappeared and became a part of it. Tribeca was once again on her own in this new and enchanting country.

When her stop arrived, she got off the train and started walking in the direction of the place where she was booked to stay for a few nights before moving into the college hostel. Walking through the beautiful village of Leysin made her realize what an absolute sensory treat it was!

Almost every quaint wooden cottage had its own little garden plot in the backyard. Most windows were decorated with hanging pots having geraniums and other colorful flowers. Needless to say, there were also beautifully tended backyards where families grew their own vegetables and fruits. O the charms of Leysin!

With outstanding exposure to the sun, the kind she had never seen before, she understood why Leysin was so conducive to outdoor activities and water sports all year round. With astounding views of the Alps and the Rhone valley all around, teamed with fresh, pure mountain air, Tribeca decided she would indulge in some Nordic walking trails soon to make the start of her stay in Leysin extra special. Finally, she reached the resort where she was booked to stay. After unpacking her stuff, she got down to write her sister a quick letter.

1 st September, 2009

Dear Rebecca,

I have reached the hotel where I am to stay for the next couple of days. Situated in lower Leysin, it is only a short jaunt from shops and restaurants and also quite close to the village train station. The Chalet has what seems like 10, maybe 15 cute apartments varying from studios for two to two-bedroom apartments that can actually accommodate up to eight people.

I just read at the reception desk that the hotel also organizes a Raclette evening on Tuesday nights. What's exciting is that they've also issued me a holiday card, which helps me get discounts on the use of sports facilities and visits to some sites and museums throughout the area!

So, here I am, rearing to go J

Will keep you posted on what all I end up doing here.

Cheers,
Tribeca
Xox

Tribeca went in for a shower after which she took a walk around the hotel. She came across a quaint little eatery called the Fromagerie. The restaurant had an interesting old museum upstairs where many fascinating antiques were displayed. There were also pictures explaining how Swiss cheese was made in the olden days using a copper kettle or an open fireplace. Enchanting strains of Swiss folklore music played in the background. Tribeca decided to try out a typical Swiss meal of classic fondue and meringue followed by dark chocolate.

She thought the fondue was unbelievably delicious. Even though she had made fondue before, she had never tasted anything like this before. So, she went up to the Chef and unashamedly asked for the recipe.

Chef Ted was a well-built, good looking young man, probably a year or two younger than her. Being friendly and helpful, he taught her how to make the fondue out of Gruyère cheese in a pan specially meant for cooking it.

Tribeca went back to the hotel, touched by the Chef's cherry disposition and thought how wonderful people here were.

She carefully noted the fondue recipe in her diary later that evening:

Ingredients:

2 c. Gruyère cheese, shredded
2 c. Swiss cheese, shredded
3 tbsp. flour
1/2 tsp. dry mustard
2 tsp. garlic powder
3/4 c. dry white wine
1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

Method:

Mix ingredients in a fondue pot. Serve with vegetables or bread.

The next day, Tribeca decided to soak in some more of the Swiss culture. She boarded a train and went to Montreux.

Montreux was a big, vibrant and fashionable city with lots of shopping. She decided on a boat ride from Montreux to Vevey for some exquisite views. Tribeca just loved Vevey. Soaking in the indescribable beauty around her, she made detailed mental notes as she had to write about it to Rebecca later that evening:

2 nd September, 2009

Dear Rebecca,

I must tell you all about Vevey. It's probably the most interesting place I have ever been to. There's commerce and industry smattered amidst beauty so breathtaking that words may not do any justice at all. But I'll try. I promise J

They say Vevey developed into a 'town' from a 'village' whatever that means. So in a sense it is rather urban. Apparently, it grew as traders and merchants settled from time to time – a 'transient' population so to speak.

The first thing I noticed was the expansive headquarters of Nestlé on the waterfront. Now don't get disappointed. Opposite the building I saw a large garden with a sensational logo of the Nestle bird created purely out of flowers and leaves!

In any case, I saw some of the most extraordinary waterfront views - ducks, pigeons, and pretty birds perfectly placed on the shore … you get the drift.

I also saw Charlie Chaplin's statue in a square named after him. I stood there, grinning as I thought about our favorite Chaplin movies. The famous comedian lived here for 25 years.

Just opposite Chaplin's statue is a giant fork sticking out of the water! The fork stands directly across the Nestlé Alimentarium, a museum devoted to the history of food. The fork is in commemoration of its 10th anniversary. Isn't that so queer?

Oh Becky , you just have to come here and visit me soon. We'll have so much fun together!

I'm going to sleep now. Have a long day tomorrow as well.

Goodnight!
Tribeca
Xox

On the way back to Leysin, Tribeca decided to check out Les Diablerets. It is known as a gourmet's delight after all.

She stopped by the Auberge du Rosex restaurant where she sampled some of the strangest French food she could imagine. The restaurant was housed within a 300-year-old house and its décor was made largely of witches hanging on brooms from ceilings. Tribeca was also a little surprised to see garlic hanging on the walls to ward off evil spirits. The menu, she noticed, had been very creatively divided into the 12 zodiac signs.

Tribeca was hungry and so she gorged on some unusual dishes like horse meat medallions with garlic and potatoes. She also tried the salad of baby leaves with white chocolate. She glanced across at a lively family seated on the table next to her and she saw that they had ordered a shellfish dipped in white wine and some steamed fillets of char fish with black chocolate. Tribeca was ready to call it a day after this bold, imaginative, creative, yet delectable evening.

The next morning, she received a phone call from Rebecca who told her that she was coming to visit her for the weekend. "I've been reading your letters and can't wait to see it all myself!" she said excitedly. Tribeca was ecstatic and decided to plan an extensive itinerary for the weekend.

Rebecca arrived on Saturday morning. The two sisters greeted each other happily. After Rebecca had washed up and changed, they both left to take a train to Bern.

Just then at the station, Tribeca met Chef Ted from the Fromagerie restaurant. It was his day off and he too was going toward Bern. Tribeca waved out to him and introduced him to Rebecca, who did not know much French.

As they shook hands, Tribeca noticed there was an instant attraction between Ted and Rebecca. While Ted had a strange look in his eyes, Rebecca looked shy. Tribeca invited Ted to join them on their adventure, which he accepted willingly. Ted also volunteered to be the official trip photographer. The girls were more than willing to oblige.

They were charmed by the beauty of the many cobbled streets and decorated facades along their path . They also enjoyed a scenic view of Lake Thun along the drive between Wilderswil and Därligen , where they decided to get some lunch. Ted suggested a French delicacy. Before Tribeca could even translate what he had said, Rebecca nodded and said she'd have it. She seemed to have stars in her eyes as she looked at Ted and he too seemed to be enjoying the attention. Though a bit confused, Tribeca shrugged and agreed.

After lunch, they reached Interlaken. A shopper's paradise, it was here that the girls bought a whole bunch of souvenirs. There were other interesting attractions in Interlaken, like a daily chocolate show performed by the famous Schuh chocolatier, in which truffles, pralines, and other delicious chocolates were created. A 'sweet' experience it was for the trio, each of whom asked for a free tasting. Tribeca also noticed that Rebecca ate a chocolate directly out of Ted's hands and laughed joyfully. At that point, Tribeca felt almost as if she wasn't present. Before leaving, they all bought themselves some famous Lindt chocolates.

Next, they went to Jungfraujoch, also known as the 'top of Europe'. After buying the tickets, they were led into a panoramic cable car which whisked them magically from the Pillon pass right up to the awe-inspiring glacial scenery 3000 meters above sea level. Here they got out-of-the-world views of the most spectacular Alpine peaks – Jungfrau, Matterhorn, and Mont Blanc. Tribeca read later that incidentally, the triangular chunks Toblerone, also Swiss chocolates, represent the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps.

Just then, Tribeca caught Ted and Rebecca holding hands and she smiled to herself. "It's like being between heaven and earth!" exclaimed Rebecca, unable to believe the stunning beauty surrounding them. There were two giant windows on the train providing staggering views of the glaciers and deep valleys. Some people had gone a step further and were even paragliding, skydiving, and taking hot air balloon rides.

After that heavenly experience of a lifetime, the trio went to spend a relaxing evening in Lauterbrunnen. Here, they sat by Murrenbach, a fascinating 430 meter long waterfall, which flowed into a stream. The beauty was incredible and closely resembled white powder elegantly pouring down a mountain and they captured many pictures of the sight.

After spending some time here, they went to another tranquil escape called Mürren . A car-less station perched at a height of 1638 meters, it was accessible only by cable car. Walking around this quaint little town guaranteed pure air and silence.

After that, they decided to head towards Ballenberg, which was somewhat of a cultural feast. At Ballenberg, they visited an open-air museum which had more than 100 original, centuries-old Swiss houses and courtyards. It was a single place full of fields, meadows, farm gardens, farmyard animals, and traditional arts and handicrafts. The museum also had craftsmen showcasing more than 25 traditional handicrafts including baking, wood cutting, spinning, basket-weaving, cheese making, cooking, sawing, chocolate production, and pottery.

After that long and eventful day, they said their goodbyes to Ted, thanking him for everything.

"So what do you think of Ted?" Tribeca asked her sister later that night.

"Oh he's hot! Yet gentlemanly. The perfect combination," answered Rebecca.

"I knew it! You like him, right? So now I'm sure you'll keep visiting me here," said Tribeca winking, and the two girls laughed.

They then switched off the lights and went off to sleep.

The next morning, it was a Sunday. Tribeca had decided to take her little sister to the Canton of Fribourg.

"Will Ted come along too?" asked Rebecca.

"Yes dear, I asked him to join us there directly," answered Tribeca and smiled.

Sure enough, Ted was standing at the entrance waiting for the sisters as they reached Gruyère.

The castle stood in the midst of the Fribourg's green pre-alpine foothills, majestically towering above the surrounding countryside. The 11th century castle was mostly famous for its cheese dairies and fondue. The town of Gruyère was also very charming, thanks to its picturesque architecture and craftsmanship. The sisters felt as if they were walking through eight centuries of architecture, history, and culture.

At Gruyère, they also got to learn some interesting facts about the local cheese. They learnt that each cow ate 100 kgs of fodder every day, every cow gave up to 26 liters of milk everyday, and that 13 liters of their milk made up 1 kg of cheese everyday. Awe-inspiring, delectable decadency! Rebecca bought some Gruyère cheese – a hard yellow cheese made from cow's milk. Generally known as one of the finest cheeses for baking, she found that it had a distinctive but not overpowering taste. A good melting cheese, particularly suited for making her favorite – fondues.

"Can I teach Becky how to make fondue out of the cheese?" Ted asked Tribeca.

"Of course you can. That's a great idea!" said Tribeca. "So why don't we all go back to our apartment and make fondue?"

And on that note, the three of them returned to their apartment where Ted once again demonstrated the recipe of fondue to both the sisters. The sisters spent the whole afternoon making and tasting their fondue, laughing and enjoying themselves. Later that evening, it was time for Rebecca's flight back to London. Tribeca would be moving into her hostel the following Monday and get set to start her studies at the hotel school.

"That was a wonderful stay, sis," said Rebecca as she was leaving. "I'm so glad I came. I'm sure you'll love your time here. Continue telling me all about your adventures," she said. "It was great meeting you too Ted. I'll work on my French once I get back home and maybe we'll be in touch?"

"Yes we will. I too will work harder on my English," answered Ted.

"Bye sis! It was great to have you here. Visit me again soon," said Rebecca and as she hugged her sister tight, she knew she would be seeing more of her soon, all thanks to Ted. In the bargain, she was also very pleased to find a good friend in Ted. Her stint in Switzerland was going to be surely a lot of fun, she thought to herself.

The three then departed: Ted took the train back to his house, Rebecca took the flight back to London, and Tribeca went back to unravel the remaining mysteries this magical land had in store for her in the coming months …

Rebecca reached home, exhausted and happy. She quickly freshened up, unpacked, rustled up some dinner, and curled up on her couch with her favorite book of poems.

I do my thing,
And you do
Your thing.

I am not in
This world
To live up to your expectations

And you are
Not in this
World to live
Up to mine.

You are you
And I am I,
And if by
Chance
We find
Each other,

It's beautiful.

She couldn't help but smile at Frederick Perls' eloquent prose – it seemed like it was written just for her.

Yawning, she set the book aside and sighed, 'Switzerland! There's much left to be discovered and explored. I shall be back.'

The Legendary